“Whiteboard Wanderlust” is a novella about teaching English to children for one year in a Korean private school. It describes South Korea’s education system, how it has evolved over the years, and the xenophobic attitudes about “foreign” teachers. This novella is a must read for any university graduate who is thinking about signing a contract for work at a Korean “hogwon”.
Lifting Fire is a bluntly honest autobiography that focuses on poverty in the United States. Readers are taken on a journey through periods of personal homelessness; to social work in African-American ghettos; to low-income teaching jobs in Eastern Europe and Asia; and survivalist isolation inside a ghost town of remote Wyoming – where the author confronts the nature of his poverty with a final, non-retractable, act of rage.
This appendix shows the story hidden underneath the central story. There are so many amazing lives that have shaped history that we never hear about. Small and unimportant people are easy to forget, but they can also have powerful tales to learn from.(more…)
This is the final chapter of Lifting Fire. Poverty can lead you in many different directions. This chapter looks at some of the choices we can make and the possible outcomes.(more…)
This chapter represents the catharsis that can explosively ignite after years of poverty, frustration, and anger. Armed with a loaded shotgun, an American flag, and volumes of potent moonshine; I celebrated my 40th birthday on an isolated Wyoming ranch. Feeding the flames of an arson-induced fire, and wondering if I should add my American flag, I attempt to understand what responsibilities an indigent homeless man still owes to greater US society.
This chapter studies the nature of boom and bust economies and how rural people survive economic crisis. In addition, it looks at how rebellious groups have tried to create temporary utopias that counteract the capitalist system — and the backlash and fear directed at those who are unwilling to conform.(more…)
This chapter focuses on survivalist instincts that arise within rural poverty. Sometimes the education that is most vital does not come from school or books, but in the knowledge of nature and how to use it. This chapter describes the process of adapting to natural hardships in remote locations, as well as learning new skills such as pumping water so that I could construct a garden out of piles of trash.(more…)
This chapter looks at the concept of “Trailer Trash”, the history of motor vehicle homes, and the phenomenon of American ghost towns. How did this form of affordable housing lead to such negative stereotypes? Why did so many towns in the West go bankrupt and shut down? In quest for an answer, I physically move to several ghosts towns before settling down in an isolated Wyoming countryside. (more…)
This chapter examines peaceful protest movements and the effectiveness of violence. As the Iraq War begins and billions are spent on military actions abroad, the recession has led to sharply rising unemployment. During a Seattle-based protest, I asked myself if I am willing to accept violence if it leads to social change.(more…)
This chapter takes place in Thailand, where I had created a sense of stability for awhile. It makes cross-cultural comparisons with how different cultures respond to poverty. However, the primary focus is placed on the politics of being an American living abroad shortly after the 9-11 crisis. As a seasonal flood begins to destroy my home, I pull out my father’s flag and ask what it still means to me.(more…)
This chapter looks at a period when I taught English in South Korea. For the first time in my life, I was able to save money and dream of a future. I wondered what hope could I offer Korean children for a better future. At the same time, Koreans’ anger against Americans was rapidly increasing due to actions near the US military base in Seoul — and, once again, ghosts from an American past return for a haunting.(more…)
In 1998, I finally fled the United States and lived in exile in Hungary. The Iron curtain had fallen, and Hungarians were struggling with inflation as they adapted to a capitalist economy. The atmosphere had an exciting feel of change to it. I also felt the spirit of change and wondered if I could settle down despite my past poverty. How was my poverty different than theirs? Could Hungary offer me an anchor to grow new roots?(more…)
Life can be an endless battle between freedom and restriction. While working as a case manager for homeless people, I struggled to develop a mind frame that could lift me out of poverty. On one hand, I was trapped by eternal debt repayment with interest. On the other hand, this line of work was triggering a relapse into the impoverished lifestyle. The pangs of risky freedom struck again.(more…)
This chapter explores homeless shelters, drug addiction, mental illness, and the difficulty in getting off the streets. It also explores some of the flaws that I experienced while working as a VISTA/Americorp volunteer.(more…)
This chapter explores my time as a teacher in an adult school for homeless and illiterate Americans. Many people are stuck on the streets because they lack basic skills such as filling out an application form. My focus is on what motivates people to learn despite their poverty, and the inter-personal clashes that arise from this classroom exchange. The issue of white surpremacy is a strong theme in this chapter, especially as a student was drawing me into this mind frame.
This chapter looks at my struggle to remain a pacifist. It was inspired by actual dialogue with African-American martial arts experts. It includes discussion about the politics of tracking down one’s ethnic heritage and “white” identity.(more…)
This surrealistic chapter is based on true events that happened over a single weekend. It looks at the “race” of poverty. It studies how different races respond to economic hardships and the personal theories that individuals develop to cope.(more…)
Every now and then something happens that overturns your life as you know it. My time as a Vista/Americorp volunteer ended abruptly with the death of my father. For awhile, I relapsed into a homeless lifestyle and went wandering around the United States. During this time, I documented the situation at homeless shelters in various US states and attempted to explain the different tactics used to help the homeless. (more…)
I promptly became homeless once again after graduating from a women studies program. To no surprise nobody would hire me, so I lived in my car for the following months while hunting for work. This chapter explains the process of trying to put a roof over my head. It also explores the question: Am I white trash?(more…)
This chapter looks at punk rock, dead-end jobs, the difficulty of living on minimum wage, and why employers should never mess with the dignity of low-paid staff. This chapter explores my teenage years, before a political identity had formed, and the reasons why I was once a strike breaker. (more…)
Fast food restaurants have become one of the true symbols of the United States. However, if you remove the grease from underneath your fingernails, you will see an even darker underside. Employees flutter from one dead end job to another, because few of these eating establishments offer much of a future. The idea of being dedication to one’s company is dying quickly. There is also a demographic shift as more and more minority groups, single mothers, and unskilled workers apply for fast food jobs.(more…)
This chapter look at my time in a glass factory. It shows the the frustration of trying to make a production quota on a meaningless job while better qualified colleagues were getting laid-off just in time for Christmas. After slashing my wrists on a double-paned company window, I began my life as a traveler. (more…)
This chapter is about is about working a summer job in Wyoming. In a town that was saturated with wealth, few employees could afford housing in minimum wage. Therefore, I lived in a bunkhouse while saving money. In this environment, I seriously thought about attending university and accepted the risk of student loans.(more…)
This chapter looks at childhood and the cycle of violence. It explore my family background, my father’s gang membership, my mother’s fondness of gambling, and the question of us being White Trash.(more…)
This chapter looks at the politics of being a man in a women studies program at Oregon State University. Race, gender, and class are more complex than most theories can comprehend. People can be oppressed in some ways; while experiencing certain privileges at the same time. Radical feminists tend to blame patriarchy, and avoid all discussion about their own race or class priviledges.(more…)
This chapter explores the futility of temp work, the occupational evils of telemarketing, and the God-like power of debt collection agencies. In this chapter, I struggle to apply to government volunteer programs such Peace Corp, Americorp, and VISTA; while struggling to fight off bankruptcy. (more…)
This chapter explores life in two separate ghettos where I have lived. It highlights the American history of ghetto slums and explains why African-Americans are crowded into them. As a side note, I try to compare cultural differences between white and black poverty. This includes my father’s background with racial violence in Los Angelos. (more…)
This chapter explores how homeless people in Oakland and Berkeley can find food at various soup kitchens and food lines. It follows the food loop that many people travel each day just to eat without any money.(more…)
This is not a travel account about romantic vacations, impeccable beaches, spectacular cultural events, awe-inspiring ruins… No, not those kinds of exultant and unforgettable experiences promised by tourism commercials. Rather Road Rash is about travelers and other tourists, tourists and local people… about the English language, world music and guidebooks… about hashish, touts and bribes… about how all these players inadvertently shape the “Global Village”. Highly readable and thought-provoking.
PART ONE (Essays on Tourism and the Global Village)
What is the nature of tourism? How does it contribute to globalization? What are the politics of being a Western expatriate in Asia? This intro lays down the general premise of Road Rash.(more…)
This chapter looks outlines various theories about what the global village is and what it may look like in the future. It also looks into some of the politics relating to globalization.(more…)
This chapter looks at the changing definitions of home. Even though more and more expatriates are finding a comfortable life abroad, their ethnics roots will always haunt them. What is the balance between the country where you were born and the place where you currently live?(more…)
This essay looks at how music creates bonds that bring people together. As World Beat creates new fusions, and the Internet makes “foreign” sounds more accessible and easy to download, new questions arise about how to control the sale and distribution of global music.(more…)
This essay seeks to understand some of the distinctions between tourists, travelers, and expatriates. How are they different? How are they the same?(more…)
This chapter explores recreational travel. It compares different ways that tourists choose to relax: cruise ships, package tours, etc. It also explores differences between quality tourists and budget backpackers. (more…)
This section looks at the power of schools to bring people together. It explores the advantages of student exchange programs and also addresses some of the negative drawbacks suffered by some foreigners experience at US universities.(more…)
This section looks at those that get paid while traveling. It explores issues such as work visas, seasonal jobs, brain drain, and the motives for some recent university graduates to become English teachers in Asia.(more…)
This section briefly points out some of the less talked about reasons to travel. Some people get off on the risks of going to dangerous locations, while others seek out red light districts, and other are just hoping to find God or get in touch with themselves.(more…)
This essay was originally written for my tourism studies class. It enumerates ten of the most controversial issues that relate to tourism. My goal was to persuade students to debate these issues in class, but ultimately these topics proved much more interesting to discuss among other travelers while on the road. (more…)
This introduction to Part Two marks an important transition from academic-style essays about tourism to stories about actual travel experiences. “Northern Threads” was designed to illustrate the learning process of a novice traveler. It explores many of the mistakes that I have made while on the road and offers warning about how to avoid them. (more…)
Lost luggage can happen to anybody, especially when trapped in a major typhoon. This true story show how difficult it can be to track down a suitcase from inside a speeding taxi cab while unable to speak the language of a foreign land. It also explores the joy of being stuck at an airport after a canceled flight. (more…)
This true story recalls the time that a Mikey Finn was slipped into my drink on Christmas day, while I was celebrating and drinking cheap whiskey with local Thai hoodlums. Not surprisingly, I woke up without my wallet near a secluded alleyway. It was at this time that I discovered the real meaning of Christmas. (more…)
Package tours can be a curse to free-spirited travelers. This story describes my one and only experience with a package tour and the sensation of being stuck on a bus full of people that don’t like each other. It ends with a truly horrific experience on a crowded Korean train.(more…)
English teaching can be an accidental path taken by recent university graduates, who often have more student loans than job options. For the new expatriate, pubs are a great place to meet and share ideas about a foreign land. However, if you look underneath the surface, there are many social politics and conflicting cultural dynamics hidden within the walls of taverns. (more…)
Part Three demonstrate the process and hardships of an extensive journey. Personal growth is a strong element behind a journey, so this section marks a transition toward a deeper style of travel writing (than parts 1 & 2). This section, based in India, is also designed to show the differences between a seasoned traveler and a basic tourist. (more…)
This journey begins with a horrid temp job in Portland, Oregon. Employees are forced to unload a container full of merchandise from India. It has been sprayed with toxic chemicals by the US Customs Department to kill rodents and pathogens. As my eyes and skin burn, I realize that I will escape this life inside the United States.(more…)
Newly arrived at 2:30 am, the gates of India swing open to me at the airport. I set out on my journey loaded with luggage and mental baggage. Cultural shock kicks in as I seek a cheap dive to crash.(more…)
An old friend persuades me to visit his family in Bangalore. He introduces me to well-developed aspects of his country and points out the economically progressive side of India. We listen to Jazz, drink Karnataka rum. and go on a road trip.(more…)
After 58 hours of non-stop travel, I arrive in the mountainous town of Manali. Here, I am promptly introduced to the dark side of tourism as several long term tourists sell hash or opium to fund their travel. Meanwhile, other travelers attempt to parasitically feed off new arrivals. I eventually met a quasi-guru named Black Gift, who offers me an unusual lesson.(more…)
India can be a schizophrenic nation. There is a progressive and wealthy side, which I saw firsthand in various exclusive nightclubs. There is also the traditional, conservative, side that can reflect deep levels of poverty. As I was surfing a wave among the wealthy and privileged in Dehli, these two side of one nation suddenly crashed - resulting in some seriously shocked housemaids and the eviction of the French women that I was staying with.(more…)
The magic of India slowly seeps in. The mood of a journey can give special meaning to brief encounters that you experience along the way. Even the act of getting swarmed by gangs of begging children can be a learning opportunity.(more…)
A journey may involve spontaneous expenses in the form of bribes. Corruption is commonplace in India, and it can drain your budget quickly. This story looks at the time that I refused to pay a bribe to a government official, and the resulting night in which I was forced to wander aimlessly around a strange city because I could not find an opened place to sleep.(more…)
Unprepared tourist can be a cash cow for many touts and vendors. There are many ways to take advantage of someone by pretending to offer assistance. At the same time, many tourists attempt to exploit locals to save a few coins. It is a two-way street. As Westerners collide with locals in Asia, there is sometimes a tug-a-war to see who can exploit whom. (more…)
What is the connection that we make with other Westerners while traveling? Is there a spiritual connection behind the chance encounters? Is it romance of lust? This story looks at the blessing of meeting somebody that you can connect with while traveling solo. (more…)
Every now and then, one gets tired of having to deal with other tourists on a “spiritual” journey. This story looks at a particularly claustrophobic train ride with some “religious” travelers. Despite our sharing a common goal in India, this encounter results in a clash of wills as we fight over the material possession of a single train seat. (more…)
This story looks at the Manali-Goa tourist loop. In this experience, I meet up with some Western travelers on a bus that have smuggled hashish and opium from Manali to sell on the Goa rave scene. I also have a bad encounter with a monkey as I run out of travel money. While racing a motorcycle around the city, I find out that a good friend has just died on the road. (more…)
All good journeys must come to an end. This story is about my struggle to return home in time for my friend’s funeral. He had drowned while swimming in Thailand, so I decided to go back to the United States — where I had the greatest culture shock of my life. (more…)
This is the fourth and final section of Road Rash. It focuses on my return to Asia for employment as an English teacher, after few job opportunities were revealed in the United States. My aim in this section is to show the transition from the life of a traveler to that of an expatriate. I also want to explore the politics of being a US citizen in Southeast Asia. (more…)
This story is about my private ritual on Jomtien Beach to honor a friend who had drowned there earlier. It looks at the concepts of faith, ceremony, and spirits. As a side plot, I explore the rapid growth of tourism in Thailand and wonder about the ghosts of the country’s past. (more…)
This story was written shortly after the bombing or the World Trade towers on September 11. Just days afterward, I traveled through former Khmer Rogue strongholds in Cambodia and stayed at Muslim owned hotels. I look at terrorism, the cycle of violence, and impact on tourism. Ultimately, I ask what it means to be a US citizen in a world that is becoming resentful of American actions abroad.(more…)
This story was written shortly after the terrorist attacks on the World Trade Center. The United States had just invaded Afghanistan, and I was traveling through Lao to see sites that America had heavily bombed during its secret war. Travel warnings were issued to Americans across the globe as anthrax scares proliferated back home. I continue to explore the impact of the tourism industry and my role as a US citizen living abroad.(more…)
This is the grand finale of Road Rash. It looks at the tremendous impact that foreign NGOs and the booming tourism industry have had in Nepal. It asks the questions: Is all this globalization a good thing or is it just destroying traditional cultures? Does this push for widespread global capitalism threaten quintessential elements of the human soul? I look at my own ethnic roots and explore how they are being lost in the great American “melting pot”. As the stroke of the New Year arrives, I race to the top of a building trying to escape numerous attempts to sell me something.(more…)
This article was the grand finale for my “Ajarn Island” novella. It began with ghosts and ends with a long string of bureaucratic red tape. This is what ultimately kills the inner spirit of foreigners and drives many highly qualified teachers away from Thailand. Luckily, this chapter marked a new beginning for me. I would soon quit teaching and start a new job as a writer/sub-editor at the Bangkok Post.
This article showcases the frustrations of being a foreigner in Thailand. As outsiders, we are often expected to pay higher rent, extra admission fees, and additional expenses for basic transportation or food. To make matters worse, there are frequently changing visa rules and policies for obtaining work permit policies. My personal peeve is the 90-day check requirement, which can lead to a fine of 2,000 baht or more. No exception are made for foreigners who have married Thai spouses and raise Thai children.
Of course, there are sophisticated tricks for getting around these practices, but every now and then one’s frustration still hits its peak. This is what triggered this article.
This article was my first attempt to research the history of education in Thailand. It explores some of the first modern schools in the country, early issues about curriculum development, and the role of English. This material traces the path from the first Western educators in Thailand to the rise of the modern TEFL industry. (more…)
This article looks at the various ways that I have caught my students cheating on tests. It also explores how modern tools such as mobile phones and talking dictionaries are making it more tempting for them to take the easy way out.
